Don Bowie zdecydował o przerwaniu zimowej wyprawy na Broad Peak ze względu na chorobę płuc. Do gwałtownego nawrotu choroby doszło w czasie próby ataku szczytowego, którą podjął razem z Urubko.

Denis Urubko pomógł towarzyszowi zejść do bazy, choć – jak mówi – pogoda była „zachęcająca” i mogła pozwolić mu na zdobycie szczytu.

Razem Bowiem do Skardu odleciała Hintsa, która także uskarżała się na problemy zdrowotne.



UPDATE: Broad Peak / K2 Winter Expedition. PLEASE READ CAREFULLY FOR THE CORRECT DETAILS. This video was taken on Broad Peak yesterday morning at 6900m as I descended the mountain for the last time.Throughout this entire expedition I fought every day as hard as I could, climbing in the bitter cold day in and day out, staying commited and focused and determined to summit. However, I did not mentioned it here on Instagram, but ever since my early chest infections my coughing has become worse and worse. Each night my lungs became more congested, my coughing fits more frequent and violent. Yesterday, at Camp 3, I finally threw in the towel and quit this expedition. I had to get some medical attention- enough is enough- and I need to think about my future health. Denis and I climbed back.down to base camp, and I called my insurance company and explained the situation. They immediately sent a helicopter and flew me out. I am now at the hospital, and x-rays confirm that I have been operating for sometime now with bronchial pneumonia- the doctor says I have likely had it the entire expedition- a result of the early infections. For now, I'm just grateful to be down and getting treatment. Other quick details with more info later: 1) I do not and never have had HAPE. Period. In base camp I thought it was bronchitis. But it's pneumonia. 2) There are storms and high winds forecast for (at least) the next 12 days making summit improbable before then. 3) Denis remained on the mountain to try again. GO DENIS WE ARE CHEERING FOR YOU!!! 4) @lottahintsa assessed the weather situation and determined to also leave the expedition- she told me she will post updates on her profile starting tomorrow. 5) I will post more in the days to come, but for now I just want thank each one of you for following us on this expedition- all your encouragement really means the world to me. Thank you and stay tuned for lots of pics and video now that we have proper WIFI. Don- - - - - #mountaineering #climbinglife #noteverest #nooxygen #highaltitudeexperience #adventure #climbhigher #alpinizm #karakoram #k2 #k2winter #broadpeak #alpinista #wspinaczkalodowa

Post udostępniony przez Don Bowie (@donbowie)


– Niestety, nie byłam wystarczająco zdrowa, aby podjąć próbę ataku szczytowego. Kaszel, ból w klatce piersiowej, bóle pleców, krwawienie z nosa. Do tego złe prognozy pogody i przewidywany wiatr o sile 150 km/h prawie do końca naszej wyprawy. To wszystko zaważyło, że wróciłam do Skardu – wyjaśniała himalaistka.

Denis Urubko zamierza samotnie kontynuować wspinaczkę. Samotna wyprawa nie jest dla niego niczym nowym, ponieważ to bardzo doświadczony himalaista – ocenia Krzysztof Wielicki w rozmowie z portalem

Zdaniem Wielickiego, Urubkę może powstrzymać jedynie niesprzyjająca pogoda. Możliwie więc, że uda mu się zdobyć szczyt. Mniej prawdopodobne, aby w bieżącym sezonie zimowym wspiął się także na K2, co początkowo zapowiadał.



#BPK2winter update (a few more)❄️ Part of the process of ending an expedition and staying sane (it’s quite a shock to be back in civilization) is analyzing the expedition, learning and moving your focus onto the next one. Here I’m gonna list some of the most awesome things that just happened! ❄️ I had the chance to climb with two of the best climbers in the world, Denis Urubko and @donbowie , watching them, asking questions, learning and trying to keep up with them. (Btw, Denis is still in BC, and with his experience he might have the chance to summit. Cheering on you, Denis!!!) ❄️ Winter climbing teaches you so much more than summer climbing. Four words: Hard. Blue. Steep. Ice. For hundreds of vertical meters that you climb up and down, over and over again. ❄️ Having to climb straight from BC to C2 in winter conditions. Tough but rewarding, a good test! ❄️ EDIT: at least the guys didn’t know any other woman that had been this high in winter Karakoram, but we found out from @montagnamagica that Tamara Stys had been at 7250m on Gash I! Huge respect woman!! (Nanga Parbat is part of Himalaya) ❄️ Definitely expanded my comfort zone. ❄️ And additionally I am forever grateful for the awesome BC team we had!! Mohsin, Jahved and Ali Abas, thank you for taking so good care of us, for providing good food and some kerosene warmth! Tajamul, our liaison officer, thanks for watching after us! ❄️ I think I’m in a pretty awesome place to start training for the next big expedition